Sewing, Spinning, and Knitting

 

Seaside Reglan Cardigan for a Tilda-Style Doll

A modern, easy-to-read adaptation

If you have ever tried knitting from an older craft book, you already know that some patterns are charming but not always easy to follow. This little cardigan was inspired by a doll sweater pattern that had lovely proportions but very confusing instructions as printed. The original wording was difficult to interpret, especially around the sleeves and raglan shaping, so this version has been rewritten in a clear, modern format that is much easier to read and knit.

In many modern knitting patterns, instructions are often reviewed by a technical editor and then worked by one or more test knitters before publication. That process helps catch unclear directions, missing steps, awkward phrasing, and stitch-count problems before a pattern ever reaches print. Older patterns, translated patterns, and small-format book patterns do not always undergo the same level of refinement, which is one reason knitters sometimes have to “read between the lines” and reconstruct what the designer likely intended. This adaptation is designed to preserve the look of the original cardigan while giving knitters a version they can actually use with confidence.

This cardigan is sized to fit a Tilda-style doll and is worked flat from the lower edge upward. The body is knitted first, the sleeves are worked separately, and then all pieces are joined for a simple raglan yoke. If you enjoy doll knitting, handmade dolls, cottage-style sewing projects, or Tilda-inspired designs, this is a practical little sweater pattern to keep on hand.

 

Pattern Notes for Readers

This adapted version was written because the original book instructions were difficult to interpret, especially in the sleeve-joining and raglan sections. The goal here was to preserve the overall look of the cardigan while presenting the pattern in a way that is logical, readable, and easier for knitters to follow. When older or translated knitting patterns feel incomplete, sometimes the most practical solution is to rewrite them based on the intended construction rather than trying to follow every printed word exactly.

Pattern Information

Skill level

Easy to intermediate

Size

To fit a Tilda-style doll or another cloth doll of similar proportions

Yarn

Toft DK yarn

Needles

US 3 knitting needles (I used one 12-inch 3.25mm Lykke Driftwood circular needle for the body and one Addi Skacel circular Easy knit 10-inch 3.25mm standard slick turbo finish tip.  That way, they can both serve as stitch holders for the live stitches.)

Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch
10 rows = 1 inch

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on

  • BO = bind off

  • K = knit

  • P = purl

  • K2tog = knit 2 stitches together

  • st/sts = stitch/stitches

  • RS = right side

  • WS = wrong side

Notes

  • This cardigan is worked flat, not in the round.

  • The body is worked first.

  • The sleeves are worked separately, then joined to the body.

  • The yoke is shaped with raglan decreases.

  • This pattern is a cleaned-up adaptation created to make the construction much easier to understand.

 

Seaside Raglan Cardigan

A simple knitted cardigan for a Tilda-style doll

This easy doll cardigan is worked flat from the lower edge up. The body is knitted first, then the sleeves are worked separately and joined to the body. The yoke is shaped with raglan decreases, and the cardigan is finished with simple seaming.

Finished fit

Designed to fit a Tilda-style doll of similar proportions.

Materials

  • Toft DK yarn

  • US 3 knitting needles

  • Tapestry needle for seaming

Gauge

6 stitches = 1 inch
10 rows = 1 inch

Abbreviations

  • CO: cast on

  • BO: bind off

  • K: knit

  • P: purl

  • K2tog: knit 2 stitches together

  • K2 TBL: knit 2 stitches together through the back loops

  • st/sts: stitch/stitches

  • RS: right side

  • WS: wrong side

Notes

  • The cardigan is worked flat, not in the round.

  • The body is worked first.

  • The sleeves are worked separately, then joined to the body.

  • Markers are optional but helpful for the raglan shaping.

Body

CO 48 sts

Lower edge (seed stitch)

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 across.
Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across. (the knit the purls and purl the knits)

Body

Rows 3–18: Work in stockinette.

  • Knit all RS rows

  • Purl all WS rows

Shape armholes

Row 19 (WS): K11, BO 4, K18, BO 4, K11.

You now have:

  • 11 sts for one front

  • 18 sts for the back

  • 11 sts for the other front

40 body stitches remain live on the needle.

Sleeves

Make 2

CO 14 sts

Cuff (seed sitch)

Row 1 (RS): K1, P1 across.
Row 2 (WS): P1, K1 across.

Sleeve

Rows 3–20: Work in stockinette. (you can shorten or lengthen the sleeves here )

  • Knit all RS rows

  • Purl all WS rows

Leave the stitches live.
Make a second sleeve the same way.

Join sleeves to body

Next row (RS):

  • K11 front

  • K14 first sleeve

  • K18 back

  • K14 second sleeve

  • K11 front

You now have 68 sts.

If using markers, place them between each section:

11 front | 14 sleeve | 18 back | 14 sleeve | 11 front

Next row (WS): Purl across. Pass the stich markers as you come to them.

Next row (RS) Knit

Next row (WS): Purl

Raglan shaping

Raglan decrease row

(K2tog is right-leaning and k2TBL is left-leaning decrease)

RS row: Knit to 2 stitches before the first marker, K2TBL, slip marker, K2tog.
Repeat this at each marker, then knit to the end.

This decreases 8 stitches across the row.

Next row

WS row: Purl across.

Repeat

Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked the raglan decrease row 5 times total.

Stitch count check

  • Start of yoke: 68 sts

  • 5 raglan decrease rows = 40 sts decreased

  • Remaining after raglan shaping: 28 sts

Neck shaping

Next row (RS): BO 3 sts, knit.

Next row(WS):  BO first 3 sts, purl decrease purl to the end.
22 sts remain.

Next row (RS): K1 P1

Next row (WS): P1 K1

Final row (RS): Cast off or Bind off in pattern K1 P1, slip one over across all stitches.

Finishing

  • Sew each sleeve seam.

  • Sew the underarm joins. You will need to fit the bottom of the sleeve into the armhole opening. 

  • Weave in all ends.

Optional edging   

For a neater finish, apply single crochet at the front edge starting from the bottom of the front and then make a chain to use as a tie to close the top of the cardigan.

Blocking

Make sure to moisten the sweater with tepid to warm water and a small amount of wool wash.  Rinse well and then block the sweater on a blocking board.  Block the crochet chains straight and the rest of the sweater flat, as it would be worn, to help the yarn relax. Once dry have your doll wear their new sweater! 

Copyright 2026 Sonora Desert Designs For personal use only!

This pattern is an independently written adaptation for a Tilda-style doll and is intended as a practical knitting guide for makers who want a simple doll cardigan pattern in a clearer format.

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